There are umpteen ways to cook cannelloni. Tonight I’m steering the kitchen through about four different recipes. Some forego the white sauce, others reject spinach. All require a bit of sweetness – a bit of sugar and some cherry tomatoes. For me the best bit about cannelloni – what makes it superior to lasagna – is the separation of ingredients. Where lasagna opts for the geological boredom of strata, cannelloni curls its ingredients in hoops. The result is better all round.


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